The built-in bar with swing-up bar door provides plenty of seating and counter space for your next backyard party.
This year’s shed is one of the most versatile we’ve ever built. The bar and covered patio area make it a perfect place to entertain or just hang out. The steep roof and sturdy lofts provide tons of extra storage space. And the high-tech materials, including reflective roof sheathing and prefinished floor panels, add to the shed’s comfort and convenience. Of course, if you don’t want a bar, you can install a bank of windows in its place. In fact, without too much more work, you could eliminate the front porch and build one big shed for even more storage space.
Inexpensive windows that you build yourself
By Jeff Gorton
Tons of loft storage
Shaded patio and Bar
The perfect party spot, plus tons of storage.
Barn sash mounted in easy-to assemble pine frames provides abundant light and ventilation for a fraction of the cost of factory windows.
Two huge loft areas supported by strong 2x8 joists provide lots of storage space.
INSTALL THE FLOORING
SIDE THE WALLS
We used the no-groove version of the 4 x 8-ft. Cedar Texture textured siding panels, but grooved versions are also available. The panels come in different thicknesses as well as your choice of shiplap or square edges.
Our shed includes several Louisiana-Pacific (LP) engineered wood products that are favorites of shed builders. These materials come primed or you can order them with a factory paint finish. For more info, visit LPShed.com
LP SMARTSIDE PRIMED PANEL SIDING
Run the second top plate on each side of the shed out over the posts. Cut miters on the plates where they join over the posts. Connect the plates to the posts with screws.
MODERN MATERIALS FOR A BETTER SHED
Mark the joist locations on two rim joists and nail the rims to the top plate. Make sure they are set in 1-1/2 in. from the outside edge of the wall to allow space for the second rim joist. Attach the joists with screws or nails driven through the rim joists. Then add the second rim joist and install joist hangers on every joist.
FASTEN THE PLATES OVER THE POSTS
If you want the look of cedar shakes without all the extra work or expense of the real thing, these panels are perfect. Each panel is about 12 in. wide and 4 ft. long and can be installed with either the straight or the staggered edge exposed, depending on the look you’re after.
Trim boards are available in 16-ft. lengths and widths from 2-1/2 in. to 11-1/4 in. You can even get the boards in various thicknesses from about 1/2 in. to about 1 in. thick. There are two varieties, stranded like we used, and fiber core. The fiber version is reversible so you can have either the rough or the smooth side facing out
Mark the stud locations on the bottom plate. Then use a level to transfer the stud locations to the top plate. Measure to find the stud lengths.
SET THE CEILING JOISTS
LP SMARTSIDE CEDAR TEXTURE SHAKES
LP SMARTSIDE TRIM AND FASCIA
FILL IN THE GABLE FRAMING
Start by cutting the 2x8 ridge board to length and marking the rafter locations on both sides using Figure K as a guide. Also mark the rafter locations on the floor along both sides of the shed. Next, set the ridge on temporary 2x4 posts and brace it with diagonal 2x4s (Photo 10). The top of the ridge should be 76 in. from the floor. Cut a pair of rafters (Figure J) and set them in place to test the fit. Make any needed adjustments, and when you have a pair of rafters that fit perfectly, mark one of them as a pattern. Use the pattern to trace the rafter cuts on the remaining 2x6s and cut out the rafters. Stretch a string along the top of the ridge as a guide to keep the ridge straight as you install the pairs of rafters (Photo 10). The 2x4 blocks nailed to the floor between the rafters help position the rafters and make them easier to secure. Add the 2x6 subfascias before you install the four overhang rafters at the front and back of the shed. When the roof frame is done, you can build the front and back gable walls (Figure L). The front wall requires an opening for the gable-end window (Photo 11). Finish the roof construction by covering the rafters with sheathing (see Figure N and Photo 12).
Mark the rafter locations on the ridge and set the ridge in place on temporary posts. Cut the rafters and install them in pairs, making sure the ridge stays straight as you screw or nail the rafters to the ridge.
FRAME THE ROOF
BUILD THE FLOOR
These 4 x 8-ft. tongue-and-groove floor panels come prefinished on one side with a tough, textured overlay that results in a great-looking, durable shed floor.
LP PROSTRUCT FLOORING WITH SMARTFINISH
Using Figure C as a guide, chalk lines on the floor to indicate the inside edges of the walls. These lines provide a reference for straightening the bottom plate of the walls after the walls are standing. Cut the top and bottom wall plates and mark the stud locations on them (Figures D – G). Build the side walls (Photo 4). Stand them up and brace them temporarily. Then build and stand the front and back walls. After nailing the walls together at the corners, install temporary diagonal braces on the inside to hold the walls plumb (Photo 5). There are two 4x4 posts at the front of the shed that support the front half of the roof. Secure the bottom of the posts to the deck frame with metal post anchors. Tie the top of the posts together with the second (top) 2x4 plates that run over the top of the walls. Miter the ends of the 2x4 plates over the posts and attach them with screws (Photo 6).
Products were installed by The Family Handyman independent of LP Building Products installation instructions.
BUILD THE WALLS
Double-Duty Pub ShedOverall dimensions (including overhangs): 14' 6" wide x 15' tall x 18' 1" deep
The reflective SilverTech finish on this roof sheathing brightens the shed’s interior while reducing heat buildup.
In addition to common building materials that you’ll find at most home centers and lumberyards, we used some special products from Louisiana-Pacific (shown at right) that you may have to order if you want to duplicate our shed exactly. The windows are shop built using plastic utility window sash that we found at a local home center. Search for “barn sash” online if you can’t find it locally. The swing-up bar door is site built. The entry door on the side is a standard prehung exterior door that’s readily available at most home centers (about $220). The materials for the shed cost us about $6,500. You’ll need standard DIY tools including a circular saw and drill to build this shed. A framing nail gun and compressor will speed up the framing. Since there’s a lot of trim and siding to nail up, we used a coil siding nailer loaded with galvanized ring-shank siding nails. You can rent a coil siding nail gun like this for about $30 a day. A miter saw and table saw aren’t required but will make your cuts more accurate. This is a big shed, but it’s no more complicated than a small one. If you have experience with deck building or other small carpentry projects, you shouldn’t have any trouble finishing this shed. There are a lot of materials to cut and hoist, though, so you’ll want to round up a few helpers. Expect to spend five or six weekends completing the shed.
LP PROSTRUCT ROOF SHEATHING WITH SILVERTECH
Rip a strip of 2x4 to 1-1/4 in. thick and nail it along the top of the opening to provide a fastening location for the hinges. Support the door on temporary blocks while you attach the strap hinges to the door.
The next step after installing deck boards on the front porch (Figure M and Photo 7) is to build the attic floor. The 2x8 joists covered with sheets of flooring material provide storage space in the attic. We left a 4-ft.-wide opening for easy access to the front and back loft areas, but you could also cover the entire area with a floor and provide an access door or pull-down ladder instead. Start by marking the joist locations on the two side joists using Figure H as a guide. Then cut and install the joists (Photo 8). Before you cover the joists with the 4 x 8-ft. sheets of flooring, plumb and brace the 4x4 posts with diagonal 2x4s. Also stretch a string or mason’s line from front to back along the top edge of the outside joist to make sure the walls and joists are straight. The attic floor needs to be square and have straight sides. If not, the rafters won’t fit correctly.
TOOLS, TIME AND MATERIALS
Rip 10-degree angles on the sill piece and screw it to the wall under the windows. Then cut 1x4s to fit between the top trim and the sill and nail them on.
MOUNT THE BAR DOOR
ADD CEILING JOISTS AND ATTIC FLOORING
TRIM THE WINDOWS
WHAT IT TAKES
Screw the 2x2 and 2x4 frame to the framing. Then cover the top and bottom with plywood. Finish the bar by covering the face with trim, mitered at the corners.
Double-check the corners and the front posts to make sure they’re plumb. Then cut and install the 4 x 8-ft. sheets of siding (Photo 9). Follow the siding manufacturer’s instructions for spacing and nailing the siding. Remember to install metal drip cap flashing (visible in Photo 9) over the 2x8 skirt board before installing the siding.
Before you shingle the roof, install metal drip edge. Then nail a row of starter shingles along the bottom of the roof. Install the rest of the shingles according to the package instructions. Before painting, we filled spaces on the exterior with acrylic caulk. Then we rolled and brushed two coats of top-quality acrylic exterior paint onto the trim and siding.
BUILD THE BAR
Check with your local building department to see whether a permit is required. Also find out if there are rules about where your shed can be located on the lot. Take the Materials List with you to your favorite lumberyard or home center and go over the list with the salesperson to see what items you may have to order. Then set up a delivery so you’ll be ready to build when your help arrives. A few days before you plan to dig, call 811 for instructions on how to locate buried utility lines.
INSTALL THE SIDING
Cut a sheet of siding according to the dimensions given in Figure P online. Glue and screw 1x6s and 1x4s to the siding to create the bar door.
Frame down with 2x4s to create a false beam. After covering the ceiling with siding sheets, wrap the side and bottom of the false beam and add 1x2 trim around the ceiling.
Nail the soffits to the underside of the rafters. Then nail the 1x8 fascia boards to the subfascia and gable-end rafters. Add 1x3 roof molding flush to the top of the sheathing.
ASSEMBLE THE BAR DOOR
BUILD THE FALSE BEAMS
INSTALL THE SOFFIT AND FASCIA
As we’ve done with many of our recent sheds, we built this shed on a wood floor supported by treated 6x6s. But you could substitute a concrete slab or provide footings or another type of support for the floor joists. Start by laying out the perimeter of the shed, either with stakes and a string line, or with a rectangle built with 2x4s to represent the outside edges of the 12 x 16-ft. floor. Now measure in 8-3/4 in. from the short sides and drive stakes to mark the center of the trenches. Drive a third pair of stakes to mark the center beam. Dig trenches about 12 in. wide and about 10 in. below where you want the bottom edge of the joists to end up. Pour 4 in. of gravel into the trenches and level it off. Make sure the gravel in all three trenches is at the same height. Then cut the 6x6s to 12 ft. long and set them in the trenches. Measure to make sure the 6x6s are parallel. Then measure diagonally from the ends of the outside 6x6s to make certain they’re square. The diagonal measurements should be equal. Finally, level the 6x6s (Photo 1 and Figure B). Next, frame the floor with 2x6s. Start by cutting the 12-ft.-long rim joists for the front and back and marking the joist locations. Cut the joists and nail them to the rim joists. When you’re done, square the joists (Photo 2). Then use a taut string line or sight down the 12-ft. rim joist to make sure it’s straight. Then drive toenails through the joists into the 6x6s to hold the joists in place. We’re using tongue-and-groove LP ProStruct Flooring with SmartFinish for the shed floor. Photo 3 shows how to install the flooring.
If your prehung door has exterior trim, pry it off. The wide trim board running around the shed, under the soffit, will take the place of the top door trim. Place the door in the opening to check the fit. The top doorjamb should rest against the wide trim board. Use wooden or composite shims between the side jambs and the 2x4 framing to square the door frame. Place shims behind each hinge and at the top, middle and bottom of the latch side. Adjust the shims until there’s an even space between the door and the doorjambs on the top and sides. Then drive screws through the doorjambs into the framing at the shim locations to secure the door. Finish the door installation by adding 1x4 trim boards to each side. Finish the exterior trim by nailing 1x2 battens over the stud locations and installing the corner boards if you haven’t done so already.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing the shake panels. Provide space for caulk at the ends, and stagger the joints according to the instructions.
INSTALL THE DOOR AND FINISH THE TRIM
COVER THE GABLES WITH SHAKES
The front and back gable ends are covered with panels that resemble cedar shakes. After installing a metal drip cap over the 1x2 that caps the wide trim board, install the shakes according to the manufacturer’s instructions (Photo 17). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for details about panel placement and how much caulk space to leave between the panels and the trim.
Cut the 1x4s, including a 10-degree angle on the bottoms of the side pieces, and screw them together. Add 1x2 stops. Screw a pair of hinges to the frame. Set the sash into place and use the hinges as a guide to drill holes for the machine screws that you’ll use to attach the sash.
Rest treated 6x6 sleepers on beds of gravel. Use a long, straight board and a level to make sure the 6x6s are level from end to end, and level with each other. Pound the tops with a sledgehammer or heavy board to adjust the height of the 6x6s.
ADD THE SHAKE PANELS
ASSEMBLE THE WINDOWS
LAY THE FOUNDATION
The bar consists of a frame of 2x2s and 2x4s covered on the top and bottom with plywood and finished with a wood edge (Photo 18 and Figure P). For extra strength, use screws to attach the frame. Shim under the 2x4s if needed to level the bar top before installing the plywood. When you’re done building the bar, add jambs to the sides and top and install exterior trim. Cut the jamb material to fit and nail the pieces to the sides and top of the bar opening. Then add 1x6 trim to both sides of the bar opening to finish it off. The bar door attaches to the inside of the shed with hinges and swings up to open. To build the door, simply cut a piece of siding material to the right size. Then attach the frame and batten boards with glue and screws (Photo 19 and Figure P). To install the bar door, rest it on blocks so that the bottom is 2-1/4 in. below the bar top. Add a 1-1/4-in.-thick strip of wood along the top of the door to provide a hinge attachment point. Then screw strap hinges to the wood strip and to the door (Photo 20). Remove the temporary support blocks when you’re done attaching the hinges. We mounted a pair of locking hasps on the interior side of the bar door to secure it when it’s closed. Then we added eye bolts to the door edges and to the ceiling above the door to provide a way to hang the door when it’s open.
Start by nailing the soffit boards to the underside of the rafters. Then add the 1x8 fascia boards that cover the 2x6 subfascias and overhanging rafters. Finish the overhang trim by installing the 1x3 roof molding over the 1x8 fascias (Photo 13). The next step is to install the 1-in. x 9-1/4-in. trim board that fits against the soffit and runs around the perimeter of the shed and porch. This wide trim board forms one side of the false beam that runs around the porch ceiling. Add a 2x4 frame to the underside of the porch ceiling to create the false beam. Then nail the grooved panels to the porch ceiling and cover the 2x4 false beam with trim (Photo 14). You can install the corner boards at this stage, but the battens will have to wait until after you’ve built and installed the windows. Figures S – V show details for the siding and trim installation.
BUILD THE BAR AND THE BAR DOOR
TRIM OUT THE EXTERIOR
Cut the plates and mark the stud locations on them. Build and stand the side walls. Then build and stand the front and back walls.
BUILD THE WALLS
Build the 2x6 frame on top of the 6x6s. Then measure diagonally to make sure the frame is square. Diagonal measurements from opposite corners should be equal. If not, rack the frame until they are. Then nail or screw the four corners to the 6x6s to hold the frame square.
We built inexpensive windows for the shed using plastic barn sash mounted in 1x4 pine frames (Photo 15 and Figure Q and R). Start by measuring the sash and building a 1x4 frame that’s 1/4 in. wider and taller than the sash. Cut 10-degree angles on the bottom of the sides to provide a sloping sill. Cut 1x2 stops to fit in the frame and position them to hold the sash flush with the outside edge of the 1x4 frame. Then attach galvanized screen door hinges to the frame, set the sash in place and drill holes for the fasteners. Since the plastic isn’t strong enough to hold wood screws, we drilled holes through the sash and attached the hinges with machine screws, washers and nuts. Connect three windows to form the window assembly for the side wall (Figures R and U). Use a pair of 2x4s as spacers between each window. Screw through the window frames into the spacers to hold the windows together. Tip the triple window assembly into the window opening. Shim under the windows until about 3/8 in. of the top frame is exposed on the outside. Shim between the studs and the window frame to level and plumb the window unit and to adjust the frame until there’s a consistent space between the window frame and the sash. Make sure the window frames are flush to the siding. Then screw through the window frames into the studs to hold the windows in place. We added Stanley Storm Window Adjuster hardware to the windows to hold them open and to lock them. Rip a 2x4 to 2 in. wide with a 10-degree bevel on each side to form the sill piece. Cut the sill to extend 3-1/4 in. past the window frame on each end and attach it to the wall under the windows with long screws. Then cut and install the 1x4 trim pieces that fit between the top trim and the sill (Photo 16). The front window is similar, except it’s smaller and contains only one sash. Use the same process to build and install the front window.
SQUARE THE FLOOR FRAME
Start by cutting and installing the perimeter boards. Leave a 1-in. overhang. Notch and miter the perimeter boards to fit around the post. Then space the remaining deck boards with a 16d nail and screw them to the joists. We used the Cortex hidden fastener system.
INSTALL THE DECKING
Make sure the walls are firmly nailed together at the corners. Then use a level to plumb the corners while you attach temporary diagonal bracing to the inside of the walls. Brace all four walls. You can remove the bracing after you install the siding panels.
Screw blocks to the subfascia to support the first row of roof sheathing while you nail it to the rafters. Space the sheathing about 1/8 in. between sheets to allow for expansion. Stagger the seams between rows.
PLUMB AND BRACE THE WALLS
Fasten the first sheet in the back corner with construction adhesive and deck screws. Finish the row with a half sheet. Then start with a full sheet from the opposite end so the seams between sheets are staggered.
INSTALL THE SHEATHING
Measure and cut the siding panels so that the seams align over wall studs. Rest the bottom of the panels on a temporary 1/2-in. spacer to provide space between the siding and the drip cap. Nail the siding to the studs.